Happy Monday guys!
I am starting my week in a very, very sleepy mood, following a late night of last minute essay writing (yay for procrastination!) So, in the spirit of Mondays and being tired, I figured what better day to discuss concealer than today. My under-eye bags are something other worldly, y’all. So let’s learn how to cover them. And lets learn to cover a few other concerns too. Now I am speaking strictly concealing here, no color correcting or highlighting yet. That’ll come soon enough.
I would like to note, I would not recommend using concealer on its own. That is, I wouldn’t skip base altogether and only wear base. I think you should wear something, whether it be tinted moisturizer or actual foundation. The reason for this is concealer typically doesn’t look great on its own. Why? Concealer is truly more pigment than most foundations because its meant strictly to cover small areas with not much product. So if you’re placing product with a ton of pigment in one on bare skin, it’ll look weird, even blended in, because everything else on your face will have no pigment.
First lets start by saying there are typically two genre’s of concealing: under eye and “blemish”. Now I use the word blemish lightly, as by blemish I mean anything you simply want to cover that isn’t under your eyes. So why do we separate them? Well, you typically wouldn’t use the same concealer on your under-eyes and on your face. Surprising? I feel like it might be. Typical you go to your local beauty store and get a concealer to try and cover all your concealing needs (no pun intended). But different concealers work for different things. The biggest difference (I think) is hydration levels in concealers. If you’re concealing something underneath the eye, you’re going to want a concealer that is more hydrating. This is because the skin underneath your eyes is more susceptible to getting dry. Additionally, under-eye skin is a lot thinner and delicate so you wouldn’t want a super dry concealer that’s harder to blend under the eye because its just going tug at your skin. However, a dryer concealer like this is great for a blemish, as the face typically (but not always) produces more oil, and therefore needs something a little dryer to last longer.
Now just because something is more hydrating does not mean it is more prone to creasing. This is such a huge misconception. There are tons of dryer concealers that crease, just like there are tons of hydrating ones that don’t.
So when it comes to under eye concealing, one of the most important things to note is where under-eye darkness comes from and that is usually the inner corner of the eye, right under the tear duct. A lot of times, this darkness carries on to the entirety of the under-eye, almost like a shadow. Therefore, you want to pinpoint most of your concealing to the inner corner of your eye.
So you can see above (say hello to my eye lol), I am placing most product towards the corner of my eye. Now, you’ve probably heard of highlighting and girls making these giant triangles under their eyes. That’s NOT what I’m doing here. I’m just concealing. I don’t go below the immediate under eye region. As far as color goes, I’ve heard sooo many things. Some say go darker if you feel your under-eye is super dark, some say go lighter. I say go pretty close to your skin tone. A half a shade lighter or so is fine, but it’s very easy to go too light very quickly and make your under eye look worse. From here you can blend outwards with either a brush or sponge.
If you’re using a brush, you want to use something that’s relatively dense and has shorter bristles:
This Sephora Collection Pro Concealer Brush is one of my favorites to use in store. Notice, it has a slanted edge to apply the product and to drag and blend. Like wise you could use a normal even dense brush:
This Tarte Rainforest of the Sea Double Ended Concealer Brush is a great buy also, because not only do you get two brushes in one, but you have a little more control over how much you want to place or how you want to blend it out.
For a sponge, my two holy grails are the Beauty Blender and Real Techniques Sponge. I would use the pointed tip for precision. Both of these sponges come in mini’s as well, and while they are made to fit under the eye specifically, I don’t find them to be any more helpful. Just dab that concealer guys!
Blemish concealing is like a wholeeeee different ball game, but not really. I’m going to use a pimple as an example throughout. First, I’d like to say that unfortunately you wont ever be able to hide the texture of a pimple or any blemish that has texture or height, at least not fully. It just isn’t realistic. We’re getting rid of color here. So like the under eye, the color of most pimples come from a certain place, usually the center. The center of the pimple will be more red, or the skin around the center, and as you get further and further from the center it gradually gets lighter. So we use the same general concept as under-eye: we want to place most pigment where the color is most prominent and blend out. So a brush is preferred here, something small and precise:
This NYX Precision Brush is a great size and shape for this. When concealing blemishes, you want to place the concealer on the center of the blemish and blend out, dragging out, not dabbing. Keep most of the pigment in the center. Since blemish concealers are more dry, you’ll find it easier to leave a decent amount of pigment on the center. Fingers (clean fingers) are also great for dabbing the outside region of the blemish to help it blend. Blending with your fingers is often forgotten because so many people use brushes and sponges now, but the skin to skin helps blend beautifully. Don’t touch the center though!
Well everyone, there ya have it! Crash course on concealing. Let me know of any questions you have and I’d be more than happy to answer them. Happy Monday!